A favorite book of mine is Food Philosophy, written by David Kaplan. He has an entire chapter about Food Existentialism and discusses topics like Why Does it Matter What We Eat - really thought-provoking stuff. Perhaps you would enjoy it as well...
The purées look marvelous - equally good without the butter, once achieving an appreciation of food without butter.
I’ve been dithering about investing in a Vitamix and this might push me over the edge. My kenwood just doesn’t get the smoothness I crave. Great photos btw, very appetising!
Get it. You won’t regret it. The first time I made soup in my vitamix and the friction of the blades spinning so fast heating up the soup was incredible.
Thanks, really appreciate that. Also, a little tip, but if you are after a smoothness you might have experienced in a nice restaurant, 9/10 it's because the restaurant in question has used a pinch of xantham gum.
Adding my thank you for the carrot purée. A delicious and easy yet impressive addition to my toolbox. It was immensely enjoyed by all, except the teenager recovering from wisdom teeth extraction for whom it was expressly prepared. Of course, because, you know, teenage boys.
A ras al hanout oven roasted cod and Canarias papas abrugadas con mojo verde de perejil. The vibrancy of the carrots complemented that of the mojo beautifully.
Julie, that spiced cod sounds perfect for the deep and rich carrot purée. Nice choice. And you've taught me a new one with that potato dish. Will have to try that.
I'm not sure what I could possibly have been doing to have been to busy to have never made carrot puree when it looks and sounds so good. And whatever age you might be, to be told you did the correct seasoning is worth a glow of pride
Haha, thanks Mark. And im so happy to have shared it with you. I've written in previous posts about Portland, the London restaurant where I worked at the start of my cooking career. The purées we made there were a cut above. Hope you try it for yourself. I have to say the carrot purée really is special.
I’ve been known to roast and then Vitamix them with some strong stock and thought that was pretty luxe, but this caramelising in butter situation is outrageous restaurant stuff and I must try it at once.
I was a bit busy going on about Beckettian tramps, but the point with these purée recipes is how they manage the water content at different stages of the cooking. First, we need the water content to cook the veg thoroughly without browning them. Then we want to slowly reduce the liquid to really concentrate the flavour. I agree with you, there is a certain "specificity" with this kind of cooking. But it isn't complex or over the top and out of reach of home cooks, just really thought through. And, if you'll allow me to say, a real pleasure to share.
A pleasure to be one of the people it's shared with, too! It's actually a very simple preparation -- nothing fiddly, it only takes being observant and a little patient -- which I find is the case with most of the best things I know how to cook.
I keep hearing about Beckett. I have a bunch of his books here. I have other reading I need to do first, but once in a while I’ll read a page or two of Beckett when I’m supposed to be reading something else. It’s always good.
I read a short story a while back that was absolutely unlike anything I’d ever read.
What was the short story? I always recommend the short novel Molloy (part one of the Trilogy) as a starting point. A wonderful piece of work. The novella First Love is also a very beautiful thing in my opinion. I love his work. It means a lot to me, been reading and studying it for so long.
One of my favourites. If you liked The End I think you'll enjoy Molloy. Beckett wrote 3 short novellas (The End, The Calmative, and The Expelled) that read rather like precursors to his Trilogy.
Eventually I suspect I’ll read most or all of these. I’ve got a big current reading list to go with a big writing project I’m on, and Beckett doesn’t really fit. Maybe I can find a way to make him fit a little bit, though!
whenever i see that you've posted an update, i get excited and look forward to my morning coffee so that i can read it without any other distractions. thank you for keeping this appointment.
I have always wanted to be a Vladimir but in my heart I know I’m an Estragon. Thank you for invoking one of my favorite writers, whose work I haven’t read in too long. The purées look and sound wonderful, and their colors are vivid and…hopeful. Cheers
A not insignificant part of me would gladly let this newsletter pivot to weekly readings of Beckett through the lens of my culinary career. Probably best I don't go for the niche market of myself and one D. Marchetti. Thanks for the lovely message.😁
You are profound. The words about the hats one wears at work... so true. And 'something' becoming 'everything'. Obviously you are a great chef but you're a great writer too.
That's very generous of you, Graeme. Maybe too generous. Whether cooking or writing, I still have a lot to learn. We always do, right? But it means a great deal to me to read that from you. Thank you.
Not averse at all. The key I think is simplicity, choose a single spice you love and go from there. I'd definitely try things like cumin or coriander seed in place of fennel. Do you have a replacement in mind? Alternatively, just leave out the fennel seed. It will still be lovely.
A favorite book of mine is Food Philosophy, written by David Kaplan. He has an entire chapter about Food Existentialism and discusses topics like Why Does it Matter What We Eat - really thought-provoking stuff. Perhaps you would enjoy it as well...
The purées look marvelous - equally good without the butter, once achieving an appreciation of food without butter.
Thanks, Jack. I'll check out that Kaplan for sure.
This is a helpful site to begin a journey into this exciting field... https://food.unt.edu/
I’ve been dithering about investing in a Vitamix and this might push me over the edge. My kenwood just doesn’t get the smoothness I crave. Great photos btw, very appetising!
Get it. You won’t regret it. The first time I made soup in my vitamix and the friction of the blades spinning so fast heating up the soup was incredible.
It’s very tempting
Do it. DO IT! Doooo iiiittt!!!
Thanks, really appreciate that. Also, a little tip, but if you are after a smoothness you might have experienced in a nice restaurant, 9/10 it's because the restaurant in question has used a pinch of xantham gum.
That’s great to know, thank you. I always have that in the house too.
Adding my thank you for the carrot purée. A delicious and easy yet impressive addition to my toolbox. It was immensely enjoyed by all, except the teenager recovering from wisdom teeth extraction for whom it was expressly prepared. Of course, because, you know, teenage boys.
I'm so glad to hear you tried it. It's special stuff in my opinion. Such a deep flavour. So rich. What did you have it with?
A ras al hanout oven roasted cod and Canarias papas abrugadas con mojo verde de perejil. The vibrancy of the carrots complemented that of the mojo beautifully.
Julie, that spiced cod sounds perfect for the deep and rich carrot purée. Nice choice. And you've taught me a new one with that potato dish. Will have to try that.
I'm not sure what I could possibly have been doing to have been to busy to have never made carrot puree when it looks and sounds so good. And whatever age you might be, to be told you did the correct seasoning is worth a glow of pride
Haha, thanks Mark. And im so happy to have shared it with you. I've written in previous posts about Portland, the London restaurant where I worked at the start of my cooking career. The purées we made there were a cut above. Hope you try it for yourself. I have to say the carrot purée really is special.
I’ve been known to roast and then Vitamix them with some strong stock and thought that was pretty luxe, but this caramelising in butter situation is outrageous restaurant stuff and I must try it at once.
I was a bit busy going on about Beckettian tramps, but the point with these purée recipes is how they manage the water content at different stages of the cooking. First, we need the water content to cook the veg thoroughly without browning them. Then we want to slowly reduce the liquid to really concentrate the flavour. I agree with you, there is a certain "specificity" with this kind of cooking. But it isn't complex or over the top and out of reach of home cooks, just really thought through. And, if you'll allow me to say, a real pleasure to share.
A pleasure to be one of the people it's shared with, too! It's actually a very simple preparation -- nothing fiddly, it only takes being observant and a little patient -- which I find is the case with most of the best things I know how to cook.
I'm with you on that.
I keep hearing about Beckett. I have a bunch of his books here. I have other reading I need to do first, but once in a while I’ll read a page or two of Beckett when I’m supposed to be reading something else. It’s always good.
I read a short story a while back that was absolutely unlike anything I’d ever read.
What was the short story? I always recommend the short novel Molloy (part one of the Trilogy) as a starting point. A wonderful piece of work. The novella First Love is also a very beautiful thing in my opinion. I love his work. It means a lot to me, been reading and studying it for so long.
“The End”
One of my favourites. If you liked The End I think you'll enjoy Molloy. Beckett wrote 3 short novellas (The End, The Calmative, and The Expelled) that read rather like precursors to his Trilogy.
Eventually I suspect I’ll read most or all of these. I’ve got a big current reading list to go with a big writing project I’m on, and Beckett doesn’t really fit. Maybe I can find a way to make him fit a little bit, though!
Mmm, that carrot purée.
It's really special stuff. So intense. A world away from boiled and pureed carrots.
whenever i see that you've posted an update, i get excited and look forward to my morning coffee so that i can read it without any other distractions. thank you for keeping this appointment.
Thank you so much for this lovely message. No surprise but it made my day. I'm so glad you're here reading. Thank you!!
I have always wanted to be a Vladimir but in my heart I know I’m an Estragon. Thank you for invoking one of my favorite writers, whose work I haven’t read in too long. The purées look and sound wonderful, and their colors are vivid and…hopeful. Cheers
A not insignificant part of me would gladly let this newsletter pivot to weekly readings of Beckett through the lens of my culinary career. Probably best I don't go for the niche market of myself and one D. Marchetti. Thanks for the lovely message.😁
You are profound. The words about the hats one wears at work... so true. And 'something' becoming 'everything'. Obviously you are a great chef but you're a great writer too.
That's very generous of you, Graeme. Maybe too generous. Whether cooking or writing, I still have a lot to learn. We always do, right? But it means a great deal to me to read that from you. Thank you.
Oh my God, that sounds soooo good! Can’t wait to try them. …and as always, beautifully written. Thanks so much.
Thank you so much, Celia. And thanks for reading. Let me know if you try out either of the purées, they really are lovely.
Yet another fun and interesting post…
Thanks a lot, Frank. I really appreciate your reading and generous comments.
That gnocchi looks so good.
It also serves as an (occasionally) successful way of getting my kids to eat more vegetables.
Thank you Wil. Both will be lovely to try. If one was not a huge fennel fan, would you be averse to another flavouring??
Not averse at all. The key I think is simplicity, choose a single spice you love and go from there. I'd definitely try things like cumin or coriander seed in place of fennel. Do you have a replacement in mind? Alternatively, just leave out the fennel seed. It will still be lovely.